The thaw goes on.

A winter skills group in G+T gully (Aoanch Mor). There is still reasonable amount of snow at this level (about 900m), but it is thawing quite quickly in the mild weather.

A small creature investigates a fine burrow that someone has kindly constructed near the Nid Ridge of Aonach Mor.

The thaw continued today. The snowpack feels very spring like at the moment, that is homogeneous layers of large (2-3mm) wet grains. Stability is generally good. The greatest hazard is rock and ice fall, or any remaining sections of cornice collapsing.
Every day there is a noticeable reduction in the snow cover at lower levels. At higher levels it is still hanging in there. There is a fair bit of ice in some of the higher gullies, and although damp at the moment, should hopefully survive the thaw.
Could really do with some colder weather, and some snow.
Blair

The Thaw Continues

Ice forming on flat terrain near the summit.

Patchy snow cover in the grey coires.

There is still a patchy but reasonable amount of snow about but it is thawing at most levels. Up on the summits the thaw-refreeze cycles continues. Whilst this isn't great for skiers it should be producing some good climbing conditions.

What is left up there.

No pictures today I am afraid. The camera would not work on the hill. Afterwards in the warmth of the office I discovered that this was because someone had put the battery in the wrong way round. Anyway high up on Aonach Mor and the Ben, the climbing looks quite good. The steeper mixed routes are black, but there is plenty of good ice and neve in the gullies. However, with few locations on good nick, these tend to get quite busy. When I had a look down East Gully, there were 11 climbers in the gully on their way down, and I about 20 more getting ready to head down. As I said in the report, be wary of higher climbers who tend to knock off rock and ice, or drop equipment, on top of you. I once had an ice axe dropped about 50 metres down Vanishing Gully (on Ben Nevis) onto my head!
Blair

The thaw

Windy, mild, and damp on Aonach Mor today.

The thaw properly arrived in Lochaber today. Over the weekend it was not too mild, summit temperatures just hovering about freezing, and generally dry conditions. Today the summit temperature were around +2C, and a heavy drizzle fell. The snowpack is getting pretty wet, and at lower levels in particular is disappearing quickly. The mild conditions are expected to last a few days yet. The snowpack will slowly consolidate through this time. When the temperatures do drop again, the surving snow will freeze solid, and likely to provide some great climbing on the easy and mid grade gullies. The thaw will also release a fair bit of water, and this will lead to rapid ice build up when the temperature drops.
Blair

Mildness

Looking over towards South Buttress of Aonach Mor today

At higher levels in Lochaber there was a brief thaw on Thursday/Friday. Summit temperatures were about -1.5C today. The higher crags are still holding some snow, and there is some reasonable ice and neve in some of the gullies. Lower down the hill there is some good spring snow, which is nice to ski on. However, mild temperatures are forecast for this week. The snow and ice that is left after this next thaw is likely to be good for climbing, but how much will survive?
Blair

Up the Ben

Here are a few pics of up the Ben today


G

Winter wonderland

Ben Nevis looking good yesterday (Saturday) evening

A great day for ski touring. Here a couple of skiers enjoy the run down to the Aonach Mor/Aonach Beag col.

Although there is some ice about, the ice routes on Aonach Beag generally are looking pretty thin

I took off my skis and went knee deep into soft snow. Breaking trail though this would be pretty hard going

It was a cold, settled winter day on Aonach Mor today. Loads of snow which is making skis the way to get about the hill. Hope you like the pictures.
Blair

Lovely day

A lovely day. A couple got engaged up here today, and another team (in the picture) seem to be having a picnic. I forgot my sandwiches today, so was very jealous.

After a cloudy moring it cleared up nicely on Aonach Mor today.It was so nice this afternoon that a couple got engaged near the top of the hill.

Tip Top conditions in Lochaber

During the last week we have had a fair amount of snow here, although not as much as in the Cairngorms. However, given the quantites of fresh snow, stability is not as bad as it could be. This is because the wind has mainly been from the North East, thus depositing the snow on South Westerly aspects. These aspects were generally quite bare before this snowfall. Some places, like Easy Gully on Aonach Mor, which are usually quite dangerous after snowfall, are in fact scoured and safe. Having said that, care is needed where the new snow has accumulated, especially as the run outs are not very good. This means that even a small slide could well have very serious consequences.


Sunday looks like being another great day, so get out there and enjoy the winter. The skiing is good. The buttresses are well hoared up, but have been reported to be a bit verglassed in places. There is a some nice ice about on the Ben. However, I imagine that walk-ins would be pretty hard going. Anyway enjoy whatever you get up to.
Blair

Windy Weekend

Lenticular clouds over Creag Meagaidh indicating high winds

The main feature of the weather yesterday (Saturday) was the very strong and gusty winds. At several points I ended up crawling to reduce the chance of being blown over. One scalp wopund was susstained be someone getting blown over. The high winds did however produce some nice lenticular clouds.

Some good looking ice high on the Ben

Although still breezy today it was alot calmer than Saturday. Cold temperatures have frozen the snowpack solid. Looks like some good conditions on many of the easy to mid grade ice routes on Ben Nevis today.
Blair